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    Pulang Kampung

    January 15, 2026 · 7 min read · Personal

    I've been back to Jakarta many times since moving to England. But this trip was different. I went back with Mandi7 in my head, and suddenly I saw everything.

    The flowers near the graveyards

    In Jakarta, there's no florist on the high street. If you want flowers — for mandi kembang, for anything — you go to the markets near the cemeteries. That's where they've always been sold, because scattering petals on graves is part of how we honor the dead. I'd walked past these stalls my whole life without thinking about it.

    View of Mount Lawu from a terrace in Java

    The neighbour with the oils

    My mother's neighbour sells essential oils. When I asked where he got them, he mentioned Ciledug — a neighbourhood in Jakarta where people go for perfume ingredients. I didn't know this existed.

    The thread

    This trip was about tracing the supply chain backwards — from the flowers to the oils to the artisans who make the packaging. What I found was that none of it was hidden. It had been there all along.

    Rice fields in Java with misty hills in the background